Your curls look perfect when they are wet, then puff into a cloud before you reach the door. Curls are naturally drier than straight hair and they dislike rough handling, so the answer is in a few small rules. These 12 curly hair care rules give you definition without a fight, so start at number one tonight.
1. Cleanse the scalp and be gentle with the lengths
Massage shampoo into your scalp with your fingertips and let the foam run down the curls. Curly strands dry out easily because the natural oil struggles to slide down all those bends. That is why you only need to scrub the roots. Wash once a week or every ten days if your hair is very dry, and a bit more often if your scalp gets oily. Pick a mild, moisturizing formula. Rinse for a full minute, because leftover shampoo causes itching and dull curls. If your curls feel stiff or squeaky after washing, your shampoo is too harsh, and a creamier one will help.
2. Use more conditioner than you think you need
Take a palm full of conditioner for each half of your head and smooth it from the ends upward. Curls soak up conditioner like a sponge, and a little dab is gone in seconds. You want your hair to feel slippery and almost over done. Leave it on for three to five minutes while you wash your body. Rinse most of it out and leave a little in for softness. If your curls look limp and greasy afterward, cut back a bit. If they still feel rough, add more next time. The goal is a slippery coat on every strand from end to root.
3. Detangle only when your hair is wet and slippery
Finger comb or use a wide tooth comb while the conditioner is still in, one section at a time. Dry curls are tight springs, and combing them dry splits the ends and breaks the curl pattern. Start at the bottom of each section and work up. Hold the hair above the knot so you do not tug on your scalp. When a knot sticks, add more conditioner and ease it apart with your fingers. Clip the finished section out of the way. A rushed detangle ruins a wash day, but a patient one takes ten minutes and leaves you with fewer broken curls on the floor.
4. Apply products while your hair is dripping wet
Style within two minutes of stepping out of the shower, before the water drains from your curls. Water is what keeps the curl clumped and moisturized, and the product seals it in. Rake a leave in through first, then add a gel or a mousse in a layer on top. Smooth it on in sections with praying hands, pressing your palms flat along the hair. If you wait until your hair is damp or dry, the product breaks apart and the curls frizz. Use a coin sized amount of gel for each section and add more only if your curls still feel loose.
5. Scrunch out the water instead of rubbing
Press an old cotton t shirt or a microfiber towel up against your curls and squeeze upward. A rough towel ruffles the outer layer of each strand and turns curls into fuzz. You want to remove the extra drips, not all the water. Scrunch from the ends toward the roots, as if you were squeezing a sponge. Hold each section for a few seconds. Do not twist or rub the towel around your head. If your curls feel heavy and soaked, squeeze again for another round. A soft squeeze leaves clumps that stay together while the rest of the hair dries around them. A rough towel adds fuzz, and if the frizz keeps coming back, frizzy curly hair is worth a look.
6. Keep your hands off while it dries
Leave your curls alone until they are fully dry, even when the urge to fluff is strong. Touching curls as they dry breaks up the clumps that formed, and that is where frizz is born. You have a cast of gel around each curl, and it needs time to set. Do not run your fingers through your hair and do not part it. Wait until it feels crunchy and dry, then scrunch the crunch out gently with your palms. This takes a while, so plan to wash in the evening or early in the day. Patience at this stage gives you the sharpest definition.
7. Use a diffuser on low heat if you are in a hurry
Set the dryer to low heat and medium speed, and cup your curls in the diffuser from below. Hold it there for a minute, then move to another section. Do not blast the air around your head, because that blows the curls apart. Dry until your hair is about eighty percent dry, then let the rest dry in the air. Hot, fast air makes curls frizz and wears out the ends. A diffuser saves time on cold mornings and in the winter, but treat it as a helper and not a habit. Use it a couple of times a week at most.
8. Plop or wrap your hair for a short time
Wrap your hair in a soft t shirt for ten to twenty minutes after you apply your products. This is called plopping, and it helps curls form and dry in clumps while soaking up extra water. Lay the shirt flat, flip your hair onto it, then twist the sleeves around the back. Do not leave it on for hours, since a long plop can flatten your roots. Take it off before your hair is dry, then finish with air or a diffuser. If your curls feel lifted and bouncy afterward, keep doing it. If they feel squashed, skip this step.
9. Refresh with water and a little product
On day two or three, spritz your curls with water and smooth a small amount of leave in over the dry spots. Dampen your palms and press them over any flat or frizzy section. Scrunch lightly, then leave it alone. You do not need to wash again. The water wakes the curl, and the little bit of product keeps it that way. Avoid adding more gel on top of old gel, because it flakes. Focus on the front and the crown, where curls flatten first. A quick refresh takes two minutes and saves you a whole wash day.
10. Sleep in a loose pineapple on satin
Gather your curls on top of your head in a loose, high ponytail and sleep on a satin pillowcase. This is called the pineapple. It keeps your curls from being flattened and tangled while you toss and turn. Use a soft scrunchie, never a tight elastic. Wrap a satin scarf or bonnet over the top if you move a lot in your sleep. Cotton pulls moisture out of curls, so satin is worth it. You will wake up with a bouncy top and much less frizz to fix, and you can often skip wetting your hair again in the morning.
11. Trim regularly and clarify occasionally
Trim every three to four months, and use a clarifying shampoo once a month to remove build up. Split ends travel up the strand and unravel your curl pattern. Trimming keeps your shape even and your ends healthy. Clarifying clears gel, oil and hard water that coat the curls and make them limp or stiff. Follow it with a deep conditioner. If your curls feel heavy or stop clumping, build up is usually why. Take off only the damaged part when you trim, and cut curls dry or let someone who knows curls do it. Your curls will spring back nicely.
12. Keep notes and change one thing at a time
Write down what you used, how much and how your curls looked on day one and day three. Curls respond to weather, water and products in odd ways, and your memory is not reliable. Change only one thing at a time, then wait two or three washes before you decide. Take a photo in the same light each time. After a month you will see which gel, which amount and which dryer setting gave you your best curls. Good curly hair care is mostly paying attention. Once you know your recipe, you can repeat it every wash day without thinking. Notes take the guesswork out, so curly hair care routine is a good place to build on.
Complete the Routine: Curly Hair Care That Keeps Your Curls Happy
Start with rules 2 and 4 on your next wash day. Curly hair has plenty more to try, so see what else the guides below might suggest for the weeks ahead.
